Field Trip: Ipoh

Ipoh, the city that is named after a tree so poisonous, it is ascribed with supernatural powers. The famous philosopher Erasmus Darwin (grandfather of Charles Darwin) once wrote "Fierce in dread silence on the blasted heath, Fell upas (Ipoh) alts, the Hydra Tree of death." No other place on Earth bears a botanical name with such exaggerated claims! Have you ever wondered why Upas became Ipoh? Now, let us visit the fabled Ipoh tree in the city of Ipoh, state of Perak, Malaysia. 

Let's go !!!

The latex of the Ipoh tree (Antiaris toxicaria, Moraceae) contains a powerful toxin called antiarin, which stops the heart. Indigenous people of Malaysia (Perak included) collected its toxic latex to prepare poison arrow or blowpipe dart which are used to hunt or defend. The latter was much feared by early European colonisers because none survived more than a few steps after being hit by Upas-arrows. Upas literally translates as poison.

It was many years after Melaka was colonised (1511) that the Upas tree was finally mentioned by a German botanist called Rumphius in what was then Indonesia in 1700s. “The tree grows there on bald mountains, and one will know it from afar in that no trees grow near it, and that the soil beneath it is barren and singed. Every living thing near the tree would die. Each tree occupies a bald mountain, scattered beneath were skeletons of its victims.” Ironically, Rumphius later admitted that he had not seen the tree! So what's Upas exactly? It's a highly guarded traditional secret you see...

Upas Ipoh  (Antiaris toxicaria, Moraceae).

In 1810, a French botanist called Leschenault found Upas tree in Java, where locals call it "antjar". Not convinced that the tree is all that evil, Leschenault chopped it down. He even spilled the toxic latex on himself, but knew that the toxin would only be fatal if it enters his bloodstream. To prove it, Leschenault injected one drop of Antiaris latex to a dog, which died within 5 minutes. He then injected 8 drops to a horse, which succumbed just as fast (don't ask me why he chose a dog and then a horse). Most importantly, Leschenault survived his encounter with the tree of death, and proceeded to document it as a new species, namely, Antiaris (after the Javan name ''antjar'') and toxicaria (poison tree). Leschenault took his prized specimen back to the Museum of Natural History in Paris. It became the type specimen (gold-standard) for future identification this species. The associated findings were published in the scientific journal Annales du Muséum national d'histoire naturelle.

 

The city flag of Ipoh, showing two standing Upas Ipoh trees.

Here comes the real question, how did Upas become Ipoh? The fact is, no one really knows! But here's a likely explanation: It is probably due to Westerner’s erroneous pronunciation of local names. Somehow, early European colonisers mispronounced Upas as ‘Epu’, which was assimilated by locals into 'Ipoh'. *Ipoh has an alternate/unrelated name called 'Paloh', which refers to a fishing village. To commemorate the poison tree of death, an Ipoh tree stands outside the railway station of Ipoh. Even the flag and logo of the city council depict two standing Ipoh trees, along with two crouching tigers. I can't help but to think if the Westerners were right, the two tigers are probably two skeletons by now!

Matured specimen at Ipoh railway station. Nov 2013.

Excerpt from MalayMail online.

However, no poison and no might of trees can withstand the test of time. The huge Ipoh tree of Ipoh has fallen some years ago, and now it's being replaced by a teeny tiny specimen. That's the one you see here, and we hope that it will one day become the glorious towering giant that once inspired so many. We will meet the Upas tree again when I tell you its full story. 

Don't ask me why am I here at the dead of night...

This is Malaysia, so forgive the wrong format for doing Latin name, at least it's Italicised.

Note the tree form and its resemblance to the cartoon representation in the city's logo above. I wonder if it's a carefully thought process, or another coincidence just like Ipoh itself. Likely the latter.

 

Today, the Upas Ipoh tree is certainly vindicated from all the evils Westerners once ascribed it. However, the bald mountains (hills) of Ipoh are true and worth a rant. If you drive along the highways across Ipoh, you'll see these limestone hills that were blasted apart, bald and barren, with their very cores extracted for mining and construction. Ipoh is a city of hills and greenery, and home to some 700,000 people. It is peaceful and famous for its exquisite cuisine and tourist attractions. However, uncontrolled mining and quarry activity now threaten not just the ecosystem, but the health of Ipoh citizens. The black whirlwind above the bald mountains is dust and silica powder! The countless skeletons of plants and animals are caused by humans and the greed of Malaysian government. Today, no one knows how many Ipoh trees are left standing in Ipoh. I hope that Malaysians find a way to co-exist with Mother Nature so that we do not cause the very bald mountain everyone dreads. Until then, it will be the skeletons of our future generation that lie beneath it.

 

A saddening sight.

 

Special thanks to my beloved partner, who is a Ipoh citizen for contributing to this field trip, the idea, and some of the pictures.